You have a bus for sale and you are wondering what the best way to go about selling it is. When selling anything, exposure is key! Getting your item in front of as many people as possible, but also the right people - buyers! Here are some things to consider:
Before you sell your bus, the first thing you should do is get a professional evaluation on it so you know what it is worth! We recommend www.BusAppraiser.com
Broker/Dealer - This can be a very effective way to sell your bus. They often know people looking for good pre-owned equipment and have good connections throughout the industry. The negatives are high selling fees/commissions, often they require bus to be in their possession, long selling times. Just be careful. Do your homework on the company/agent and be sure to ask the right questions, such as:
- What is your average turn around for a bus like mine?
- What is your commission/selling fee
- Are there any other fees I might incur?
- How often do you start and drive my bus while it's in your care?
- What do you do with my bus if there is a mechanical issue with it while in your care?
- Do you have a current insurance certificate I can examine?
- Once the sale has been finalized, how long before I receive the funds?
- How do I receive the sale proceeds? (we recommend a wire transfer)
DO IT YOURSELF - Who knows your bus better than you do? As a previous bus dealer myself, I can tell you that often times I would have to contact the owner several times throughout the sales process with questions or concerns. So the thinking of "I will let someone else handle that for me" really doesn't apply, as you are still very much involved as the owner. So here is how to best sell your bus on your own and keep that commission as $$$ PROFIT $$$...
Print Classified Ads - Years ago, this was a great way to sell your bus. Today, with the power of the internet, readers are way down and with the cost of printing and mailing, it can be quite expensive compared to online classifieds. if you chose this method, be sure to place your ad where it will be best received. For instance, if you have a late-model bus with a high asking price, don't put an ad in a local weekly auto magazine. At the same time, the local weekly might be a great place to advertise your older bus that is no longer ideal for charter/tour businesses.
Online Classified Ads - This is by far the most effective way to sell your bus. You can reach buyers 24/7 - and at their convenience. It can also be the least expensive option. Of course like anything, you want to be sure the online service you choose will reach the right people and as many of those people as possible. Make sure they continuously update their search engine optimization (SEO) and that their contend and use of keywords is optimal for the equipment you are selling. I have written many articles on HOW TO SELL YOUR BUS and VIDEOS can also be seen, so I won't cover that in this article.
Ok, so you have decided to go with an online ad...now how do you choose the right one???
Here are some examples...
eBay - by far the largest online marketplace. But beware of their fees that can get quite high. There is also a very large number of spam and non-buyers "pulling your chain". It has been reported many times that even the winning bidder often never follows through with the sale - only to leave you with the choice of having to relist your item or find something else - wasting all that valuable time and money (oh yes, you are still responsible for the selling fees even though the sale was never completed)!
Craigslist - Also a very popular resource, especially because it is a free service. But seller-beware...LOTS of spam and scammers!!! Because of it's simplicity and popularity, Craigslist is a favorite for these bad institutions to try and take advantage of unsuspecting users. Many a virus has been spread this way. I have also experienced myself, many people who contact the seller have absolutely no desire to purchase your item, they just seem to like to take up your time.
BusesOnline.com - This is the largest online marketplace for the bus industry and has been very successful in helping owners of buses, bus conversions (motorhomes), mini-buses, school-buses, transits, trolleys and limousines sell their equipment. Almost all of their visitors are buyers, and the right buyers....BUS buyers. BusesOnline.com gets over a million visitors annually - which means excellent exposure for you the seller! Prices are extremely reasonable, starting at just $25.00 per ad, and your ad remains on their website until it is sold - no other fees or commissions. No spam or unsolicited email...just real bus buyers looking for a vehicle just like yours! And unlike print ads, you have full control over your classified ad - you can change your photos, price or description at any time and as often as you'd like.
I hope this has been helpful to you. As always, if you have any questions or if I can be of any assistance to you, you can reach me via email, Facebook, LinkedIn or Google.
Best Wishes,
Jim Michaud
FULL DISCLOSER: Jim was a partner in Michaud Bus Sales, Inc., a leading bus sales company. He is also is the owner and creator of BusesOnline.com. He is the fourth generation in the bus industry - his family has been involved in the bus industry since 1914.
Monday, January 13, 2014
Thursday, January 3, 2013
I am often asked why I started BusesOnline.com. The website was originally created for our bus sales company (Michaud Bus Sales, Inc.) back in 1997. I had some previous experience with websites and the internet, and knew how powerful a tool a good website could be for us. I was right...it was very successful for us and helped us sell more buses. Buses, unlike cars, are scattered all over the country and finding the right one can be tough and expensive for the buyer. Having our inventory listed on the website gave customers a very good feel for the buses before they made travel arrangements. This saved time and money for both the buyer and us the seller.
But I knew it could be more...I had a vision for the future, and this is it - the NEW www.BusesOnline.com was created in 2009 and released in 2010. No longer a dealer, I wanted this website to help the bus owner. I wanted it to save them money and time. And I wanted it to be fun and informative at the same time. I think we have succeeded. With our classifieds, we have taken out the middle-man and made it very easy for you to deal direct – buyer & seller! We also give you an excellent tool to help you find the resources you need through our extensive Online Services Directory. Need help? It’s here – www.BusesOnline.com
The bus industry has changed so much over the years, and this website allows us, former bus dealers, to help people save time and most importantly, money! We allow you the seller to sell your vehicle yourself and save on commission fees (we have none!) – After all…who knows your bus better than you? We provide you with the tools to sell and bring the buyers to you. Just take 5 minutes to create your classified ad and we do the rest…it’s that simple!
If you are the buyer, we help you find the right vehicle for your needs. By having an easy search tool, hundreds of vehicles to choose from - all with detailed photos and descriptions directly from the owners, and the opportunity to contact the seller directly, your purchase is faster, easier and more cost effective. And you can do it any time of day, 365 days a year!
Having been a bus operator as well as a dealer, I knew the importance of Parts availability and how often people search for them. I also knew most operators have lots of surplus parts that they would never use again – so I created a way for them to buy & sell them – and it’s FREE!!! Our Parts Classifieds have also proven very helpful to people searching for hard to find parts that the dealers aren’t keeping in inventory any longer.
Our Online Services Directory is a great resource to find the products and services you need and use. We have hundreds of companies listed in over 50 categories, so you can find the right product or company fast! Every company we have listed is in good standing and we make sure that the contact information is always current and accurate.
Best Wishes,
Jim Michaud
Owner – BusesOnline.com
Jim Michaud
Owner – BusesOnline.com
Monday, August 15, 2011
HOW IT WORKS: DIFFERENTIALS
WHAT IS A DIFFERENTIAL
By: Anthony Pascarella
When a vehicle makes a turn, the wheel on the outside of the turn has a larger turning radius than the inner wheel does. The outer wheel must turn faster than inner wheel in a turn. The power from the engine must also be available to both wheels. The differential, in the drive axle, allows either wheel to turn at different speeds while still receiving power from the engine. The drive axle may be the rear, front or both axles. Differentials may be an open type or limited slip type (LSD). An open type is the most common; however, it has one disadvantage. If one tire is on a slippery surface such as ice, snow or mud, and the other tire has good traction, the power will take the path of least resistance to the tire with the least traction and that wheel will spin. The LSD will direct the power to the tire with the best traction.
RING and PINION GEARS
All differentials have a ring gear and a pinion gear. The ring and pinion gears in a rear- wheel drive differential are hypoid gears. These gears, in a rear-wheel drive axle, change the direction of rotation 90 degrees and transmit the power of the engine, through the differential gears to the wheels. Ring and pinion gears are manufactured together as a matched pair. If it is necessary to replace the ring and pinion gears, you must replace them as a pair.
GEAR RATIOS
In math, a ratio is a relationship between two numbers of the same kind, usually expressed as “A to B” or “A:B”.
In the case of ring and pinion gears, the first number indicates how many revolutions the pinion gear turns, to one turn of the ring gear.
A ratio with a larger first number means that the engine will turn faster at a given speed than a ratio with a smaller first number.
Ring and pinion gears are available in many different ratios. EX: 4.11:1,, 3.73:1
With the 4.11:1 you will get more low-end torque. With a 3.73:1, you will get more top end speed. In mathematical terms, the larger the first number is, the higher ratio is.
In automotive terms, when the ratio has a larger first number, the gears will be called a low ratio.
CALCULATING THE GEAR RATIO
There may be a tag on the differential with the ratio information on it, or the gears may have numbers stamped into them, if not, refer to one of the following procedures.
A. 1. Count the number of teeth on the pinion gear and the ring gear.
2. Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear.
Example: 41 teeth on the ring gear divided by 11 teeth on the pinion gear equals 3.73:1
The pinion gear turns 3.73 times for every one turn of the ring gear.
B. 1. If the car has an open differential, jack up one side of the axle to raise one rear tire off the ground and place a jack stand under that side. Leave the other tire on the ground.
2. Mark the tire and the driveshaft with a chalk mark.
3. Place the transmission in neutral.
4. Turn the tire two full revolutions and count the number of times that the driveshaft turns.
C. 1. If the car has a limited slip differential, jack up both sides of the axle, place jack stands under both sides.
2. Mark one tire and the driveshaft with a chalk mark.
3. Place the transmission in neutral.
4. Turn one wheel one full revolution and count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.
NOTE: One-quarter turn of the drive shaft equals .25, one-half turn equals .50, and three quarters of a turn equals .75.
REPLACING RING and PINION GEARS
If you replace the ring and pinion gears with ones of a different gear ratio, you must recalibrate the speedometer for it to read accurately. In a rear-wheel drive car, with a cable driven speedometer, gears at the tail-shaft of the transmission drive the cable. The tail-shaft of the transmission and the pinion shaft turn at the same speed. The driveshaft is between the tail-shaft of the transmission and the pinion shaft of the differential. The correct speedometer drive gears will run the speedometer at the proper rate. In a modern car, the speedometer is electrically driven. There are several ways to calibrate these speedometers.
LUBRICATION
The first consideration is proper weight, or viscosity. The next is the GL rating. It is best to use only what is specified for your differential. If the manual calls for a GL-5 rated 90W gear oil, then use that oil. Using the wrong oil may cause expensive damage.
Another important consideration when it comes to differential gear oil is the requirements of the limited slip, or traction-sensing differential. In a normal or "open" differential, the torque, or twist, created by the driveline is always applied to both wheels, regardless of whether one of those wheels happens to be spinning helplessly on an icy surface. A limited slip differential, or LSD, will sense this loss of energy and redirect torque to the wheel that has the most traction.
While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly and at worst fail outright - ending up in an expensive repair. If your vehicle has a LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD. The proper level for the oil is at the bottom of the fill hole when the differential is cool.
DIFFERENTIAL REBUILDING (A brief look)
1. Replace all bearings
2. Replace all oil seals
3. Adjust the preload on all bearings
4. Set the pinion gear depth
5. Adjust the backlash. This is the clearance between the teeth of the ring and pinion gears
6. Check the contact pattern
ACKERMAN ANGLE AT STEERING AXLE
It is also necessary for the front or steering wheels to be angled properly to allow the outside tire to follow a larger radius in a turn. This is achieved by the angle of the arms on the steering knuckles. This angle is called the Ackerman Angle.
The information in this article is meant for information purposes only. Please refer to specific manuals and information for the vehicle you are working on. Be sure to follow all safety procedures.
AUTHOR NOTE: Anthony Pascarella has a mechanical background that spans over 35 years in the bus and aircraft industries. He has held many managerial and teaching positions throughout his carreer. "Tony" as he is known by his friends, has a passion for antique vehicles and is an active member in the North Shore Old Car Club, where he is a Technical Advisor.
By: Anthony Pascarella
When a vehicle makes a turn, the wheel on the outside of the turn has a larger turning radius than the inner wheel does. The outer wheel must turn faster than inner wheel in a turn. The power from the engine must also be available to both wheels. The differential, in the drive axle, allows either wheel to turn at different speeds while still receiving power from the engine. The drive axle may be the rear, front or both axles. Differentials may be an open type or limited slip type (LSD). An open type is the most common; however, it has one disadvantage. If one tire is on a slippery surface such as ice, snow or mud, and the other tire has good traction, the power will take the path of least resistance to the tire with the least traction and that wheel will spin. The LSD will direct the power to the tire with the best traction.
RING and PINION GEARS
All differentials have a ring gear and a pinion gear. The ring and pinion gears in a rear- wheel drive differential are hypoid gears. These gears, in a rear-wheel drive axle, change the direction of rotation 90 degrees and transmit the power of the engine, through the differential gears to the wheels. Ring and pinion gears are manufactured together as a matched pair. If it is necessary to replace the ring and pinion gears, you must replace them as a pair.
GEAR RATIOS
In math, a ratio is a relationship between two numbers of the same kind, usually expressed as “A to B” or “A:B”.
In the case of ring and pinion gears, the first number indicates how many revolutions the pinion gear turns, to one turn of the ring gear.
A ratio with a larger first number means that the engine will turn faster at a given speed than a ratio with a smaller first number.
Ring and pinion gears are available in many different ratios. EX: 4.11:1,, 3.73:1
With the 4.11:1 you will get more low-end torque. With a 3.73:1, you will get more top end speed. In mathematical terms, the larger the first number is, the higher ratio is.
In automotive terms, when the ratio has a larger first number, the gears will be called a low ratio.
CALCULATING THE GEAR RATIO
There may be a tag on the differential with the ratio information on it, or the gears may have numbers stamped into them, if not, refer to one of the following procedures.
A. 1. Count the number of teeth on the pinion gear and the ring gear.
2. Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear.
Example: 41 teeth on the ring gear divided by 11 teeth on the pinion gear equals 3.73:1
The pinion gear turns 3.73 times for every one turn of the ring gear.
B. 1. If the car has an open differential, jack up one side of the axle to raise one rear tire off the ground and place a jack stand under that side. Leave the other tire on the ground.
2. Mark the tire and the driveshaft with a chalk mark.
3. Place the transmission in neutral.
4. Turn the tire two full revolutions and count the number of times that the driveshaft turns.
C. 1. If the car has a limited slip differential, jack up both sides of the axle, place jack stands under both sides.
2. Mark one tire and the driveshaft with a chalk mark.
3. Place the transmission in neutral.
4. Turn one wheel one full revolution and count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.
NOTE: One-quarter turn of the drive shaft equals .25, one-half turn equals .50, and three quarters of a turn equals .75.
REPLACING RING and PINION GEARS
If you replace the ring and pinion gears with ones of a different gear ratio, you must recalibrate the speedometer for it to read accurately. In a rear-wheel drive car, with a cable driven speedometer, gears at the tail-shaft of the transmission drive the cable. The tail-shaft of the transmission and the pinion shaft turn at the same speed. The driveshaft is between the tail-shaft of the transmission and the pinion shaft of the differential. The correct speedometer drive gears will run the speedometer at the proper rate. In a modern car, the speedometer is electrically driven. There are several ways to calibrate these speedometers.
LUBRICATION
The first consideration is proper weight, or viscosity. The next is the GL rating. It is best to use only what is specified for your differential. If the manual calls for a GL-5 rated 90W gear oil, then use that oil. Using the wrong oil may cause expensive damage.
Another important consideration when it comes to differential gear oil is the requirements of the limited slip, or traction-sensing differential. In a normal or "open" differential, the torque, or twist, created by the driveline is always applied to both wheels, regardless of whether one of those wheels happens to be spinning helplessly on an icy surface. A limited slip differential, or LSD, will sense this loss of energy and redirect torque to the wheel that has the most traction.
While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly and at worst fail outright - ending up in an expensive repair. If your vehicle has a LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD. The proper level for the oil is at the bottom of the fill hole when the differential is cool.
DIFFERENTIAL REBUILDING (A brief look)
1. Replace all bearings
2. Replace all oil seals
3. Adjust the preload on all bearings
4. Set the pinion gear depth
5. Adjust the backlash. This is the clearance between the teeth of the ring and pinion gears
6. Check the contact pattern
ACKERMAN ANGLE AT STEERING AXLE
It is also necessary for the front or steering wheels to be angled properly to allow the outside tire to follow a larger radius in a turn. This is achieved by the angle of the arms on the steering knuckles. This angle is called the Ackerman Angle.
The information in this article is meant for information purposes only. Please refer to specific manuals and information for the vehicle you are working on. Be sure to follow all safety procedures.
AUTHOR NOTE: Anthony Pascarella has a mechanical background that spans over 35 years in the bus and aircraft industries. He has held many managerial and teaching positions throughout his carreer. "Tony" as he is known by his friends, has a passion for antique vehicles and is an active member in the North Shore Old Car Club, where he is a Technical Advisor.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Buying A Bus: Part 3 of 3 – The Purchase
By: Jim Michaud
President, BusesOnline.com
Now comes the most important part of any buying process: the actual purchase. You’ve researched which vehicle would work best for your specific application, narrowed your search for a good candidate, fully inspected and drove the equipment, and now…you have picked “The One” you’d like to purchase. But wait...there are still a few things you need to work out. The most important thing is PRICE.
Negotiating a final purchase price can sometimes be difficult. The seller wants as much as he/she can get, and the buyer wants to pay as little as possible. The trick is to find a middle point that both parties are comfortable with. This can be an easy or complicated process. Here are a few things to keep in mind to make it as painless as possible for BOTH parties.
• Buyer: Remember that the seller is proud of their vehicle. In most cases, it has served them well and they have taken great pains to maintain it properly. When pointing out “issues” or “trouble areas”, keep in mind that some owners might take offense to that. Just remember the old saying “It’s not WHAT you say - it’s HOW you say it”.
• Seller: Don’t take it personally. Understand their position and be prepared for it. After-all…if they do find problems, you should already be aware of it and know what it would cost to repair. It is good practice to point these “issues” out to the potential buyer during their inspection. This instills credibility to your buyer. Don’t try to hide it – be honest and forthcoming. It will reward you in the end. Your asking price should have already accounted for such “issues”. If not, be prepared to adjust your price to accommodate repair.
• Buyer & Seller: Remember that condition varies greatly. Two buses operating from the same region for the same amount of time can look and perform completely different. Many factors come into play such as: driver’s habits, maintenance practices, cleaning and updating regiments. If the vehicle you would like to purchase is weak in one area, it will most likely be stronger in another. Be flexible and understanding.
• Buyer & Seller: Of course, form of payment is extremely important. Make sure BEFORE the delivery date that both parties have agreed to payment type and final amount. Doing this ahead of time will surely make for an easy and hassle-free delivery.
The last thing to think about is the delivery. Because buses aren’t found on every street corner, often times you will have to travel to find the right bus. Make sure you are familiar with the registration laws of the state where you are purchasing the vehicle. Some states allow the seller to offer a temporary “tag” or license plate for transport. If not available, you must make arrangements to bring a tag with you. This might mean that you will have to actually purchase the vehicle before pick-up, have your insurance in place, and register the bus to receive your registration in order to get your tag. My motto is the same as the Army’s: “Be Prepared”
Here is a helpful check list for your delivery day:
1. Bank check, wire transfer or cash (for purchase of vehicle)
2. Transport tag / License plate
3. Insurance verification (usually a faxed copy from insurance co.)
4. Money or charge cards for fuel, tolls and food
5. Cash (for the unknown or unexpected)
6. Miscellaneous tools (adjustable wrench, pliers, vise-grips, screw drivers, hammer, duck tape, misc. sized tie-wraps, WD-40, extra wire, etc)
7. Map/GPS
8. Sunglasses/reading glasses (if necessary)
9. Pen & notepad (to keep track of mileage in case fuel gauge is not working, expenses, phone numbers, etc.)
10. Water & snacks
President, BusesOnline.com
Now comes the most important part of any buying process: the actual purchase. You’ve researched which vehicle would work best for your specific application, narrowed your search for a good candidate, fully inspected and drove the equipment, and now…you have picked “The One” you’d like to purchase. But wait...there are still a few things you need to work out. The most important thing is PRICE.
Negotiating a final purchase price can sometimes be difficult. The seller wants as much as he/she can get, and the buyer wants to pay as little as possible. The trick is to find a middle point that both parties are comfortable with. This can be an easy or complicated process. Here are a few things to keep in mind to make it as painless as possible for BOTH parties.
• Buyer: Remember that the seller is proud of their vehicle. In most cases, it has served them well and they have taken great pains to maintain it properly. When pointing out “issues” or “trouble areas”, keep in mind that some owners might take offense to that. Just remember the old saying “It’s not WHAT you say - it’s HOW you say it”.
• Seller: Don’t take it personally. Understand their position and be prepared for it. After-all…if they do find problems, you should already be aware of it and know what it would cost to repair. It is good practice to point these “issues” out to the potential buyer during their inspection. This instills credibility to your buyer. Don’t try to hide it – be honest and forthcoming. It will reward you in the end. Your asking price should have already accounted for such “issues”. If not, be prepared to adjust your price to accommodate repair.
• Buyer & Seller: Remember that condition varies greatly. Two buses operating from the same region for the same amount of time can look and perform completely different. Many factors come into play such as: driver’s habits, maintenance practices, cleaning and updating regiments. If the vehicle you would like to purchase is weak in one area, it will most likely be stronger in another. Be flexible and understanding.
• Buyer & Seller: Of course, form of payment is extremely important. Make sure BEFORE the delivery date that both parties have agreed to payment type and final amount. Doing this ahead of time will surely make for an easy and hassle-free delivery.
The last thing to think about is the delivery. Because buses aren’t found on every street corner, often times you will have to travel to find the right bus. Make sure you are familiar with the registration laws of the state where you are purchasing the vehicle. Some states allow the seller to offer a temporary “tag” or license plate for transport. If not available, you must make arrangements to bring a tag with you. This might mean that you will have to actually purchase the vehicle before pick-up, have your insurance in place, and register the bus to receive your registration in order to get your tag. My motto is the same as the Army’s: “Be Prepared”
Here is a helpful check list for your delivery day:
1. Bank check, wire transfer or cash (for purchase of vehicle)
2. Transport tag / License plate
3. Insurance verification (usually a faxed copy from insurance co.)
4. Money or charge cards for fuel, tolls and food
5. Cash (for the unknown or unexpected)
6. Miscellaneous tools (adjustable wrench, pliers, vise-grips, screw drivers, hammer, duck tape, misc. sized tie-wraps, WD-40, extra wire, etc)
7. Map/GPS
8. Sunglasses/reading glasses (if necessary)
9. Pen & notepad (to keep track of mileage in case fuel gauge is not working, expenses, phone numbers, etc.)
10. Water & snacks
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Buying A Bus: Part 2 of 3 - The Physical Inspection/Test Drive
By: Jim Michaud
President, BusesOnline.com
Once you have narrowed your search down and are able to focus on a few select buses, it is strongly recommended that you physically inspect and drive these buses. In this article, we will cover some basic pointers on what to expect and look for when the physical inspection and test drive takes place.
If you are looking at a vehicle that requires a CDL license, and you do NOT hold the proper class of license, you have two options:
a) Bring a qualified, properly licensed driver with you
b) Make sure who ever is selling the bus will be able to take you for a long drive
I would also recommend that if you do not have a good mechanical background or knowledge of the type of vehicle you are looking to purchase, that you bring a mechanic with you to inspect the drivetrain and chassis of that bus. These vehicles are pretty complex and it is important to know what you are looking at. If the bus is far away, and you can only afford to have one person inspect that bus, I would send an experienced mechanic. They can sometimes spot things that you could easily overlook, potentially costing you thousands of dollars if not addressed before the final sale, or negotiated into the final sale price ahead of time.
Before the test drive, a complete inspection should be done. Here are some tips on what to look at:
Try to have the engine cold before starting, then check for smoke, vibrations & strange noises.
President, BusesOnline.com
Once you have narrowed your search down and are able to focus on a few select buses, it is strongly recommended that you physically inspect and drive these buses. In this article, we will cover some basic pointers on what to expect and look for when the physical inspection and test drive takes place.
If you are looking at a vehicle that requires a CDL license, and you do NOT hold the proper class of license, you have two options:
a) Bring a qualified, properly licensed driver with you
b) Make sure who ever is selling the bus will be able to take you for a long drive
I would also recommend that if you do not have a good mechanical background or knowledge of the type of vehicle you are looking to purchase, that you bring a mechanic with you to inspect the drivetrain and chassis of that bus. These vehicles are pretty complex and it is important to know what you are looking at. If the bus is far away, and you can only afford to have one person inspect that bus, I would send an experienced mechanic. They can sometimes spot things that you could easily overlook, potentially costing you thousands of dollars if not addressed before the final sale, or negotiated into the final sale price ahead of time.
Before the test drive, a complete inspection should be done. Here are some tips on what to look at:
- Engine compartment - check oil leaks, cracked or damaged hoses & belts, exesive dirt, rust, etc.
- Body & frame – Inspect for accident damage, rust and corrosion
- Brakes – brake pedal is working properly and they release correctly
- Parking brakes – Must hold in place when foot is off the brake and bus is in gear at idle
- Gauges – all in working order, temps & pressures are within proper limits
- Check the HVAC system for operation.
- Seats - Check for broken or ripped seats
- Luggage areas - check overhead doors, inspect rear area or under-floor areas
- Condition of the various controls – make sure they work properly and move freely
- Mirrors – broken or not adjustable
- Windshields & windows – for cracks/brakes. Don’t forget to check the emergency exits too
- Emergency equipment – not a must at purchase, but should be in place before any trip
- Signal lights – all working and lens covers not cracked
- Running lights - all working and lens covers not cracked
- Air/Hydraulic system – no leaks and hold pressure when vehicle is turned off
- Tires & spare tire – proper inflation and tread wear, also check for tread depths
Try to have the engine cold before starting, then check for smoke, vibrations & strange noises.
- Test the brakes in the yard before going on the open road. Brake noise in reverse is normal with most S-cam brakes, but should not have any noise in forward.
- If the bus pulls to either side when brakes are applied, have the brakes adjusted and try driving it again. There should be no pull either way.
- Check the transmission in both forward & reverse. If there is significant lag when put in reverse, this could be trouble. See how it shifts over the road. It should have good solid shifts with no slippage between gears.
- On a straight road check for free play in the wheel & see if the bus pulls either way if you were to take your hands off of the wheel. It should go straight.
- See if there is a bumpy road to drive on to check for suspension and other noises.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
What Road Is the Industry Traveling Down?
By Jim Michaud,
President, BusesOnline.com
President, BusesOnline.com
During these tough economic times, people have a lot of questions. One of them might be about the state of the current used bus market. What's it like out there? Is now a good time to sell? Is now a good time to buy? What does the future look like?
Though none of us have a "crystal ball", we can look back at the bus industry and learn from history. History tells us that things will get better. When there are slow economic times, they do get better, and often times, even stronger than before! Economists are saying that our economy is getting stronger and we are on the rise, though slow, we ARE recovering. In terms of the bus industry, this is excellent news if you are buying or selling new or used buses and equipment.
Prices are steady and buyers are starting to act so that tells us it's a great time to sell buses. Additionally, lenders are more willing to lend, there is a good amount of equipment on the market, and prices are still very attractive, so this indicates it is also a great time to buy buses for sale and equipment.
The sun is shining, and buses are rolling! People are spending again, and BusesOnline.com has proven to be a great tool for selling buses, with an increase in customers sales. Now's the time to get on board!
Monday, July 25, 2011
Buying A Bus: Part 1 of 3 - Where To Begin
By: Jim Michaud
President, BusesOnline.com
Unfortunately, you can’t just drive around town visiting several bus dealerships to find the right bus like you can when buying a car. Buses and bus dealerships are scattered throughout the country, and visiting many of them when searching for your next bus would be far too expensive and take far too much time.
President, BusesOnline.com
Unfortunately, you can’t just drive around town visiting several bus dealerships to find the right bus like you can when buying a car. Buses and bus dealerships are scattered throughout the country, and visiting many of them when searching for your next bus would be far too expensive and take far too much time.
Fortunately today, you have the internet: a useful tool that allows you to search the world for buses. Now you can compare prices, options and alike directly from your office, home or even your cell phone! Once you have narrowed your search, you can then contact the owner or dealer to ask more detailed questions and make possible arrangements to view the vehicles.
This makes shopping much easier, faster and far less expensive. But… you still need to do your homework and make sure you are buying the right bus to fit your specific needs.
Ask yourself these 10 basic but important questions:
1) What is your price range? This seems obvious, but be sure to factor in insurance/registration/taxes/fuel/routine and unexpected maintenance - consider the age of the vehicle when factoring maintenance costs – the older the bus, the more maintenance it will need.
2) Will you need financing? It’s helpful to have your financing in place (pre-approval) before your vehicle search and know what your finance company’s requirements are ahead of time.
3) Will you be trading in a vehicle? Whether you plan to trade-in or sell out-right, make sure you know what your current vehicle is worth. You can research this on your own, or contact a professional appraiser.
4) How many passengers will you typically be carrying? The number of passengers you will be carrying will determine the size of vehicle you will need. Be sure to think ahead to future plans and development.
5) Where are the nearest factory-authorized facilities? For warranty work or a support facility – for example: if a Cummins dealer is 10 miles from you and a Detroit Diesel dealer is 100 miles from you, you might consider a Cummins engine a better option.
6) How far will you be traveling with this bus? Day trips and casino runs have much different requirements than overnight trips and long tours. Don’t under-buy or over-buy…buy what you need.
7) What options are most important to you and your customers? Whether it’s an entertainment system, Wi-Fi and auxiliary power sources and automatic climate control for your passenger’s comfort, or fire suppression systems and tire pressure monitors for safety – make sure you get the options that are important to you and your customers. After all, it’s your customers who you are buying the bus for.
8) Will you need a restroom? Restrooms are beneficial and more comfortable for passengers on longer trips, but unnecessary for shorter day trips. Be sure you know the needs of your passengers.
9) Will you need under-floor storage? Consider the type of trips you will be providing and what is needed for luggage room by your passengers.
10) How far are you willing to travel for your purchase? It’s never too far if it’s the right bus for you!
Be sure to look for more blogs about – “Bus Buying 101” coming soon!
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